Saturday, March 29, 2008

Down memory lane: Remembering the visit to Kolkata




I have not written many travelogues. But out of nowhere came the desire to write a few lines about my experience in Kolkata. Some places are like magnets. They compel you to make visits again and again. Kolkata visit has had similar effects on me. I have fallen in love with that place in just one visit. Quite frankly I don't know the reason. It's certainly not the most beautiful place I have visited. Neither do I have any relations there. Yet the strong emotional attachment that I feel towards it and my desire to visit it again is indeed intriguing.

The exact dates that I visited Kolkata fail my memory. I think it was about 5-6 years ago. I remember taking the books along for studies. I still regret spending hours inside my hotel room preparing for the exams and missing the beauty of that foreign land. My sister was to deliver her classical-vocal performance at a contest (which she eventually won) there at Ramkrishna Mission, Kolkata and that was what prompted the visit.

Kolkata is a place full of extremes. It has an aura of its own. It does not have modernity of Mumbai but has its own rich cultural heritage. People are busy just like any other metro city but they have time to appreciate beauty of art and music. I am amazed by the number of artists and musicians come out of this region. It certainly runs in their blood. Despite being a metro city, it does not have the arrogance like Delhi (No offense intended towards Delhites). You can feel the sweetness in nature of people you meet.



My visit coincided with Doorga Pooja, known as just 'Pooja'. It is the biggest festival in Bengal and Kolkata was adorned like a bride for the occasion. All the streets were decorated with lighting and sweet Bengali music and the fragrance of sweets filled the air. The atmosphere was electrifying around us.



I found the city lazy. I am not sure if it was a norm or just an exception but I saw many shops and offices, even private closing strictly at 5 in the evening. The areas I visited had a large population of blue collar workers and thus the road-side eating joints were crowded for the evening tea and supper. You could buy a meal in Rs. 4 (10 cents). At the other end of the city, in areas like Esplanade and Park street, you could see the young upper-middle class people eating in McDonald and shopping in one of the most swanky shopping malls.



The roads are eternally jammed and they look like a sea full of yellow-top taxis. As long as your sight can reach , you can see nothing on the roads but taxis. The traffic jams are so bad in some areas that I remember getting out of taxi in the middle of the road and start walking.



This was the first time I experienced Metro rail (The second time being in NY last summer). I was really impressed by the efficiency with which the metro runs. Also, the underground stations are quite clean and modernized. There are large, fascinating murals on the walls of these stations like those of Tagore at the station named 'Rabindra Sadan'. It is an amazing view while riding when the train emerges from underground to the street level near the Dum-dum airport station. Looks like a gladiator entering the arena!



There are a lot of Victorian style buildings with red bricks. They stand as the reminder of colonialism and Raj. Along the similar lines, I must add that 'Babu' culture (Attitude of bureaucrats as if they are 'the higher living beings') is still prevalent here. You see loads of chauffeur driven Ambessadors on roads. With the 'Sahib' sitting in the back seat.



Other most vivid memories include our visit to Bellur Math. This is an ashram built by Swami Vivekanand, on the banks of the sacred Ganga. The peaceful environment has amazingly refreshing effects on mind. You feel ethereal sacredness floating around you. Eternal bliss. A momentary feeling of Nirvana.

The last memories of Kolkata I have is seeing waves of peasants and workers heading to the railway station. The driver told us that all these people live in nearby rural areas like Howra and they take trains to arrive in Kolkata to work. They start their day at 5 in the morning and when we saw them returning, it was already 8.30 at night.

I know there was no significantly unique experience in this visit. It looked just like another one week trip to an unknown place. But yet it has had lasting impression on my mind. I have fallen in love with that place. After that visit, I have read numerous Bengali authors. Whenever I see a book set in Bengal, I instantly buy it. This includes books by Tagore, Sankar, Amitav Ghosh and so on.

Mysterious, spellbinding, simple and lovely. I would summarize my impression of Kolkata with these four words.

[Image sources:

http://galen-frysinger.com/india/calcutta01.jpg
http://www.clayimage.co.uk/Dasmi.jpg
http://www.urbanrail.net/as/calc/calcutta-tollygunge1.jpg
http://tbn0.google.com/images?q=tbn:JxbaRI-Q1xSkxM:http://lh3.google.com/
_MdMP4fNXkng/RpXs5ksQEoI/AAAAAAAABAw/LIdVUim955g/s800/Picture%2B003.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/Photobarnaul/Tomsk/P1020358.jpg
http://www.smh.com.au/ffximage/2007/10/15/Kolkata_wideweb__470x304,0.jpg
]

5 comments:

Soham Shah said...

aaah..Hv never been to Kolkata all my life...Sometimes ago, I heard tht there are rickshaws in kolkata which are pulled by poor-men...I think the visualization of that shitty sight is really stopping me to visit the city...I mean poor men pulling rickshaws for their bread and butter is really an uncomforting and demoralizing sight...I cant see poverty...

Gandalf said...

You are absolutely right. I have seen that there. And we were hesitant about sitting in those rickshaws and our host said, "if you don't sit they won't get to eat tonight".

It's a tragic situation there. Poverty hangs in the air everywhere.

Soham Shah said...

Then what did u do??..did u sit in the rickshaw??...It must hv been a a hell of a dilemma as whether to see your uncomfortness in watchng the guy pulling the rickshaw or to see the poor guy's hunger and food...But as per my knowledge about you, you must have put ur uncomfortning and pity aside and just for the sake of tht poor guy, u must hv gone in the rickshaw with some heart-troubling feeling...Dont prove me wrong buddy but I am just concerned about the poor guy's dinner on tht night !!!

Gandalf said...

Your guess is pretty accurate Soham. Though my father and I walked along, we asked my sister to sit in that rickshaw. It was not that much of a burden for that poor man and still he got his bread at night.

Unknown said...

It was back in 2003 in September I guess...between 21st to 25th. But honestly I was not at all impressed by that city like you..